Opens on March 13: War of the corsets – fighting to shape femininity at the turn of the last Century

The corset is one of the most controversial garments in the history of fashion. It has been worn for centuries, shaping women's bodies according to the ideals of different times. It came into particular focus at the end of the 19th century. A lively debate flared up in Sweden which came to be known as the corset war.

The debate entailed more than just how the garment shaped the body and restricted its movement. It became a catalyst for a larger discussion about gender, class, and identity. With the corset at its center, different ideas were tested against each other – ideas about what it meant to be a woman and what women's role should be in the democratic society that was slowly taking shape.

A white corset.
Corset probably for bridal wear. Previous owners: Ebba Johanna Cecilia von Eckermann, née von Hallwyl, Helen Löfgreen, née Tersmeden. Photo: Jens Mohr, the Hallwyl Museum/SHM.

Obsolete and modern

During the 19th century, conditions for women in Sweden changed significantly. New legislation gave them the opportunity to study at university, the right to decide on their finances and more professions to choose from. It is easy to believe that the days of the corset were numbered. The lacing limited women's mobility and strength, and thus also their opportunities to work and engage in social life. Instead, the corset became more popular than ever. With industrial production, garments could be manufactured on a larger scale, using new materials and at a lower price. The corset became available to more and more people, and women from the lower social classes could afford to buy it.

In newspaper advertisements, the corset was marketed as a garment for educated, sophisticated and graceful women. Instead of representing something outdated, it was seen as modern.

The effect of the corset on the organs

4 Illustration from "Physiology for Young People" p. 84. Fig. 11. A, intended to show the natural position of the internal organs. B, when deformed by the tightening of a corset. In this way the liver and stomach have been forced downwards, as is visible in the section.

Illustration.
Photo: PDM.

Fashion slavery and women's struggle

Opponents of the corset spoke of a “fashion slavery”. Fashion was a shackle that held women captive and prevented them from taking their place in society. French fashion designers in particular were seen as the enemy. It was from the continent that the ideals of deep necklines and tightly laced waists came.

47 CENTIMETERS WAIST

At the end of the 19th century, it was important to show one's class. A tightly cinched waist signaled status.

The image shows a dress that belonged to Irma von Geijer (1873–1959), Wilhelmina von Hallwyl's youngest daughter. Based on Irma von Geijer's preserved costumes, we know that her waist was about 47 centimeters.

Label on the waist "Nanna Bagge Robes et Confections Stockholm". Previous owners: Irma Ingeborg Matilda von Geijer, née von Hallwyl and Signe von der Esch.

Photo: Jens Mohr, the Hallwyl Museum/SHM.

About the exhibition

The exhibition War of the Corsets – fighting to shape femininity at the turn of the last Century has been produced by the Women's History Museum in Umeå. The exhibition has been developed in close collaboration with Henric Bagerius, historian at Örebro University. To create a visually rich exhibition, it has now been supplemented with costumes and corsets from the collections of the Hallwyl Museum. Visitors will also see costumes from Carl Larssongården designed by Karin Larsson. The Hallwyl Museum has also borrowed a pair of corsets and a reform costume from Skansen's cloakroom.

Visit the Exhibition

The exhibition is on display from Friday, May 9th, to Sunday, January 11th, 2026. The exhibition can be viewed independently during the museum's opening hours. Tickets are purchased on-site at the museum entrance.

Price and tickets

The exhibition is included in the museum admission ticket:

  • Adult: 150 SEK (also applies to seniors and students)
  • Children and young people up to 18 years: Free entry

Good to Know Before Your Visit

  • Accessibility: To visit Building dreams, you need to go up stairs. There is no elevator in the museum.
  • Wardrobe: Backpacks and outerwear is not allowed to bring in to the museum. Instead, backpacks and outerwear can be locked away for safekeeping in lockers that are adjacent to the entrance of the museum.
  • Packed meal: Food and drink are not allowed in the museum. Hallwyl Restaurant is located in the courtyard of the museum and serves food.
  • Strollers and prams: For evacuation reasons, it is not possible to bring a stroller/pram with you around the museum, however there are a few places for leaving strollers. The nearest place to lock prams is on Norrmalmstorg.

Plan your visit

Accessibility

The Hallwyl Museum has five floors, but unfortunately no elevator. The only way to move around the museum is via stairs. The number of steps varies depending on where in the house you wish to go. If you choose to join a guided tour of the house, it involves climbing and descending at least 103 steps.

About accessibility at the museum